Xarxa Escaladors de Catalunya (APUNTA'T AQUÍ !)

Xarxa Escaladors de Catalunya (APUNTA'T AQUÍ !)
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dimecres, d’agost 19, 2009

HARD LESSONS

First ascent of FLYING CIRCUS (6a+/10) over S'AGUILOT (ANDRATX HARBOUR), a good crack leading to the top of a beauty rock in the middle of the bay...thanks to PEDRO to take us to it!!!!

Days are passing slowly...repetitive but not boring..wake up, feed the kid, pack the gear , drive across the Island, park the car..sun, hot, heat,water, salt, good weather, bad, worst or fine "tactum" of the holds...dry?wet? everybody does the same answer...

We are on good flow,but a little dubt planes over our minds...where do we go now? Our sensations become better, nor fear and all the old projects of the last year fall at the first attempts...i climb comfy and comfortable...till yesterday...

It was the last dat for LEO in MALLORCA...and we decided to give a sight to the TEMPLE...Leo said the sentence...if you move to siurana you gotta go to the base of la RAMBLA..if you go to Ceüsse you gotta go to the base of REALIZATION...i wanna give a sight to 2 SMOKING BARRELS...we moved to DIABLE with a strange sensation in our stomacs...LEO becouse didn't know about...me due to the opposite...

Quickly LEO realized about what DIABLE means...just FRIGHT, HIGNESS,BRAVE SEAS ROARING under you...is like alpinism and sport climb when you compare DIABLE and VARQUES...

But i like walls a lot, and while LEO hanged the rope to take some pics we descended slowly to the sea...i warmed up with a good try to AFROMAN...i catched the crux and jumped to the exit...my hand was no strong enough and suddenly i was flying along the wall...15 mts but controlled...buoah...not scary but tense...at the sea the stream was strong and coming back to the "vivy" was a hard work...fortunately the crew from Valencia was there and we succeded to climb back to the ledge with all the equipment...

We dryed our souls and the party started...emotions get closed into brave sights and hidden dry mouths...Leaving the ledge at the begginning of LOBSTER (6c with 20 mts of AIR down your ass) i climbed back down, the first crux was wet...i toke more chalk and shutted up my frights...resting in good positions, slowly i got the route...my firts "20" of the season...not any problem but allways leves a mark on your minds...buah...

Hearth beating uncontrollable and injection of adrenaline...buah...the point of no return is a roof finishing on campus ( my allways fucking short size!!!)...but only up there is the succeed...i enjoyed it a lot but at the top i needed a lot of time to recover my breath...i descended again and went to the cave of AFROMAN ( 7b)...the big roof cave...under LEO's CAmera i succeded again...another mental trip ...and leving the route i could take a look to the crux of my dream: ALL CATS ARE BLACK...buf...too much hard at the first sight...but..possible?

JOse, from Valencia floated after he made his decision, trought his frights to the top across LOBSTER ( 6c/20)...once he did the no retorn crux in the roof the doubt appeared...o red light switched and he started to controll the reception...give up the idea of succeed means to let failure appear...he flew a lot, long, silent and didn't get injured...when he climbed back to the ledge his sight was confused and full of adrenaline...in the middle of his trip he almost decided to get up again..but the long rest made his frights grow, the waves beating against the wall incomodated us and we decided to quit. While the crew was packing the gear i did an attempt to ALL CATS ( 7c+/8a/15)...i was tired and not motivated, but i wanted to meet the problem...to feel and to investigate...The route is simply PERFECT...a overhanged wall full of short holes lead to the crux, a jump from a good two fingers right poket ans a sloopy edge for your left hand...i jumped to nowhere, there was nothing in the white mark...i didn't reach the exit hold...big fall, and in spite i tried to controll my body the dyno made me fall on my back...i got inside the water as a release but suddenly i felt the pain...buah...fuck...i got bad and i tried to ignore it while i was swimming against the stream...the ledge was the salvation again.
HATE...VANITY...no surrender...i got to the top across SURFED DEAD ( 6c/20), an easy climb till 15 mts, where a crack leads to technical moves that leave a scary feeling on your soul...i arrived to the top again with my heart uncontrolled, junkie of endorphines...we are really insane, now i'm sure.

We all decided to quit DIABLES, we where completely empty...needed to have some beers before coming back Varques...

The afternoon was a downline to accept our cosmical inferiority...while other crews climbed happily we where still catched by the devils of the waves, just hanged over the sea...i tried BANDITO ( 8a) again and again, and the fucking boulder move of the beginning laughed on my face...hate again...even the salckline session over the sea was a disaster...when it's good is so good, when it's down is down...at least we learned it...

The french guy who was trying BISEXUAL ( 6c/10) in Varques finally succeeded on his goal...it was an explosion of happines and shouting to fight against our frustration, i was very happy for him, last year he started working patiently this route, again and again, not giving up...it was his second trip to Varques, and this redpoint was a gift for all the crew...congratulations man!! Yeah mannnnn!!!

I left Varques to get to the north...a rest looking the sundown, taking more energy to my soul and arms...enjoying life...

Good flow...

6 comentaris:

Ferran Guerrero ha dit...

Juasssssssss.

Brutal, tonai tonait tonait.

Com t'ho deus estar passant de be.

nenivan ha dit...

osti nen, quina imatge tan estetica i d'un grau que encara m'ho puc plantejar. Tot i que no tinc la vena friqui massa desenvolupada, visions com aquesta em fan dubtar de com he orientat la meva vida a la vertical durant tots aquests anys, que guapu...
Pensant en un simil a la vora de casa, no hi hauria possibilitats d'alguna cosa similar al Cavall Bernat de les Illes Medes?
fins aviat company

oriol ha dit...

waaaaaaaa!!!! jejeje-
My grandmother "desenroscava" bulbs of the lamp of the dining room to save energy and this way to be able to come to finde...

I believe that desenroscaré average marries during the whole winter to be able to save for the next year ... THIS IS A CANDY AND REAL TEMPTETION


felicitats i una forta abraçada-

QUO ...babeando y soñando con susi ya con el próximo verano para pasarse por ahi!

TRanki ha dit...

Heu QUO...NO DUBTIS BOW...CALA VARQUES té una platgeta a uns 24 mts, totllo TROPICAL, amb vies ded TOTS els levels de 8 a 12 mts...pots fer un tiento i estar en 45 segons estirat en boles sota le parasol. eL SEGON SECTOR snatch-metrosexual TÉ UNA REPISA davant. fINS I TOT EL nAWET ES TIRA DE LA REPISA a l'aigua, i nedem una estona...et veuen quan escales i s'està de PUTA MARE a l'ombreta....rotllo ESPORTIVa FAMILI-LOVe...amb caigudes sanes i alçada "curta" però que al principi encara impressiona.

VAL LA PENA, i ara estic descobrint millor les hores, els truquets, com enfrontar-me a vies difícils ( logística), com assajar trams més complicats evitant els difícils, quan puc anar onsaight i quan convé un flaix, com trobar el TACTUM...etc.

FIJO que parlem el proper estiu, un apartament rotllo CLUB MEDITERRANÉ surt per 20 eur/dia persona, amb piscina i cuina, a 10 minuts de les zones de CALES DE MALLORCA ( portocristo)...

Parlem!!!!

Ei Ferran....facing the sunset all is infinite and wonderful...tunait total...la penya esta embelesada...si a sobre li afegeixes climbing a mort això és el puto eden...més psico i menys bombes...fijo...

NENIVAN...al CAVALL fijo que hi ha chance...ja ho mirarem aquest setembre...és una qúestió de "profunditats" ( No Thanassa a sota), de desplom i de bona roca...pur alpinisme de descoberta!!!! ,p

oriol ha dit...

wops!! no se que va pasar ahir que se'm van liar dos textos en el comentari....
i per a més inri: amb catalufo-spanish-english!! juaaaaa!!


De totes formes tornar a dir que m'ha agradat saber que hi ha opcions també per l'Arnauet.
De veritat que pel que pies, les lineas que descrius i dius... la cosa pinta temptadora i fanatico-diver!! Buffff


Nosaltres amb la Susi, (i els pekes) com ja saps, molt pagans encara amb el tema de PsBloc... Ens hem limitat a saltar de les voreres, pedres i parets de Tautavel a les seves Gorges... Una opció també explèndida per a pekes i un bon lloc d'escalada per a ells... Si podem i ens queda una mica de temps ja piarem algun post amb algunes fotos i tal...

Amb tot, i malgrat que Mallorca ho pintes Genial i ja ens has obert el cuquet per l'any vinent, esper-ho poder coincidir abans amb tu a les muralles de Tossa, no? jajaja

Una abraçada Bow... i a disfrutar!

Quo ...catalufo-spanish-english parlante!!!

march ha dit...

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